Writing a Workable Crochet Pattern Part Five: Testers

You've heard the saying "two heads are better than one." This is especially true when it comes to crochet patterns; my testers often find things that I simply overlook. I always read through each pattern several times, but sometimes, I just do not see a mistake or typo. And at times  instructions that seem perfectly clear to me will be incomprehensible to someone else. I now have 3 different crocheters test each one of my patterns, in the hope that if one doesn't catch something, another one will, and this is often the case.
I never expect my testers to fix any problems they may find in one of my patterns. If they believe they have found an error, or if anything is not clear to them, they notify me.  I then check the pattern and make any corrections or revisions, and send the corrected instructions back to the tester. They let me know when they have finished a pattern, and often send me pictures of their finished items.

Here is the actual check list I give to all of my testers:

Check List for BellaCrochet Patterns

Skill Level:
Most of my patterns are rated Intermediate, but I usually do not list this in the actual pattern.
Do you agree with the skill level (if listed,) or do you think it is harder or easier? If you have done any of my patterns in the past, do you think this one is significantly harder or easier than others (should I give it a different skill level than Intermediate?)

Size:
Did your item turn out the size listed?

Gauge:
NOTE: I do not give gauge on my thread patterns, as I find it is too hard to give an accurate one, and it is not critical on most of the things I design.
If given (and it usually is not!) is it correct?
If no gauge is given, do you think it needs one?

Materials list:
Is everything you need to make the item listed?
Does it look like there is too much or not enough of a certain color of thread?
Are there things listed you do not need?

Special Stitches:
Are instructions for all Special Stitches used in the pattern given?
Are there Special Stitches listed that are not used in the pattern?
Do you understand how to make the stitch from the instructions?

Pattern:
Is there a pattern for each piece of the item?
If making more than one of an item (roses, leaves, etc.), does the pattern tell you to make the correct amount?
Does each pattern tell you what color of thread to use, and is it the correct color?
Are all the rows/rnds numbered correctly?
Does it say to “turn” at the ends of the rows (if needed)?
Does it tell you to “fasten off” at the end of the last row/rnd?
Do all the repeats work correctly?
Are all * and ( ) included and in the proper position?
Is there anything extra, or weird, like a “fasten off” when you are not changing colors or at the end of the piece?
Is the pattern clear; do you understand what it is telling you to do?
If there are pictures, can you easily see what they are trying to illustrate? Do you think they help make the pattern easier to understand?
Do you see any spelling mistakes? Typos?

PLEASE DO NOT FEEL THAT YOU MUST FIND SOMETHING TO REPORT TO ME. Nothing makes me so happy as getting a report that no errors were found!

Finishing:
Are the finishing instructions clear?
Did your item turn out like the one in the photograph by following the instructions?
Do you need more information on a certain step?

I cannot believe that I only started using testers in 2009. Before that, I agonized over each pattern, and for weeks after each was released I lived in fear of someone finding an error. My testers have given me not only much better and more accurate patterns, but peace of mind. I appreciate them more than I can say!

Writing a Workable Crochet Pattern Part Four: Doing the Math

When I worked in the technical editing department of Annie's Attic there was a dear lady (also a tech editor) who was fond of  picking up a beautiful doily or afghan and saying "It is just math; you just need to make the numbers work. That's all there is to it." As a designer this always bugged me. I felt that the stitch pattern, the type of thread or yarn used,  the proportions of the design, and even the color palette were all important elements to creating a beautiful design. I didn't like to hear what I considered a work of art described in such a matter-of-fact way. But I have to admit, when it comes to writing a pattern, she had a good point.
Math was never my favorite subject in school, but I use it every time I write a pattern. In order to write an accurate pattern, the numbers must add up. The stitches of one row are worked into the stitches of the row below, and form the base for the stitches of the following row. If one row of a pattern is off, it throws the whole pattern off.
Here is an example of how it works, and as in previous posts, the pattern is written in black and my comments are in red. Also, this pattern doesn't really make anything, it is for illustrative purposes only:

Row 1: Ch 12, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across. (First 3 chs count as first dc; 10 dc made) Okay so far.
Row 2: Ch 3 for first dc, dc in each of next 3 sts, ch 2, skip next 3 sts, dc in each of last  4 sts. You only have 10 sts on the previous row, yet these instructions tell you to work in  or skip a total of 11 sts. (1+3+3+4=11) There are many possible ways to correct this: only skip 2 sts, only dc in the last 3 sts, etc. But only the designer knows for sure what is really supposed to happen.
Another example:
Row 1: Ch 12, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across. (First 3 chs count as first dc; 10 dc made) Okay so far.
Row 2: Ch 3, (skip next st, 3 dc in next st) 4 times, turn. In this example,  you have an extra stitch left over after you complete the all the repeats. [1+ (2x4) = 9] Is it meant to be left unworked, or is it a mistake? No one wants to have to guess!
These are just brief examples of what goes on in a pattern, but they illustrate the fact that it is important to count each st of each and every row or round. Stitch counts help keep track of where you are in a pattern, and I often chart out the stitches just to make sure that my math works. And again, my best advice would be to write down every thing you do as you are actually making the item. Errors are much less likely to occur when the numbers are fresh in your mind.
And the next post will be on another way I have found to make sure that patterns accurate; having them tested.

Writing a Workable Crochet Pattern: Part Three

Now we come to the most important part of writing a pattern- the actual instructions. As in the previous post, the original pattern is written in black and  my comments are in red.

Rnd 1: (remember to use Rnd or Row correctly. I always write them in bold print so that they will stand out from the rest of the pattern) With brown, (if you are using multiple colors in a pattern, tell them which one to use. The same goes if you are using more than one size of hook) ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2 (not worked in or counted as a stitch) (you can add extra information either in a Note section at the beginning of a pattern, or in italics and parenthesis within the pattern itself at the time it is needed. I use both methods) 2 dc cluster (see Special Stitches) in ring,  (it makes a Special Stitch more noticeable if you bold it the first time it is used in a pattern; you can then refer them to the Special Stitches for instructions) ch 3, (3 dc cluster -see Special Stitches- in ring, ch 3) 5 times, join with sl st in top of 2-dc cluster (on rnds, remember to tell them how and where to join). (One 2-dc cluster, five 3-dc clusters, 6 ch-3 sps made) (A stitch count helps the crocheter know that they have worked the correct number of stitches for the round. Stitch counts are the thing my customers have most often said they would like to see added to a pattern)
Rnd 2: (Sl st, ch 2, 2 dc cluster, ch 3, 3 dc cluster, ch 3) in first ch-3 sp, (whenever possible, list everything that is going on in a single stitch or space together inside parenthesis) (3 dc cluster, ch 3, 3 dc cluster, ch 3) (I try to write out the instructions as completely as possible, it makes the pattern a bit easier) in each ch-3 sp around, (this set of instructions could also be written "(3 dc cluster, ch 3) 2 times in each ch-3 sp around" but I like to write out a repeat if it is worked less than 3 times)  join with sl st in top of 2-dc cluster. (One 2-dc cluster, 11 3-dc clusters, 12 ch-3 sps made)

Rnd 3: (Sl st, ch 2, 2 dc cluster, ch 3, 3 dc cluster, ch 3) in first ch-3 sp, 3 dc cluster in next ch-3 sp, ch 3,
*(3 dc cluster, ch 3, 3 dc cluster, ch 3) in next ch-3 sp, 3 dc cluster in next ch-3 sp, ch 3; (when writing a repeat that starts with an asterisk, end the section to be repeated with a semi-colon) repeat from * around, join with sl st in top of 2 dc-cluster. Fasten off. (when changing colors, remember to tell them to fasten off the old color) (One 2-dc cluster, 17 3-dc clusters, 18 ch-3 sps made)

Rnd 4: Join green with sc in first ch-3 sp (when changing colors, tell them what color they are now using, where to join and what stitch to use to join), work 2 more sc in same ch-3 sp as joining,  (if working more stitches in the same space or stitch that you joined in, use the phrase "in the same st/sp as joining" to avoid confusion) work 3 sc in each ch-3 sp around, join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. (54 sc made)

Rnd 5: Join yellow with sc in first sc, (ch 3, 3 dc) in same sc as joining, skip next 2 sc, *(sc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next sc, skip next 2 sc; repeat from * around, join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off.

Other things to remember and think about:
Always do a spell check!
Be consistent within the pattern. If you write "sc in each of next 3 dc" in one round, do not write "sc in next 3 sts" in the next. It might mean the same thing, but your customers will feel more comfortable with your patterns if they are written in a consistent manner.
Make sure you have numbered the row/rnds correctly. I have been known to go from Rnd 4 to Rnd 6 when writing a pattern; where Rnd 5 went is still a mystery, but your customers shouldn't have to try to figure out if it is just a numbering mistake on your part, or if a portion of the instructions are missing.
If you pattern has more than one piece (sleeves, pockets, collar, etc.) be sure you include the pattern for each.
Make sure the math works! This is such an important topic that I will be doing a follow up post on it in the future.
Do a little homework. If you have a favorite publisher or designer, someone who's patterns you enjoy working and find easy to follow, take one of their patterns and study the way it is written. You will quickly see how you can apply their style to your own patterns.
 
Did you ever dream there was so much to writing a crochet pattern? I trained for over 2 years in the Editorial department of Annie's Attic and I still didn't learn all there was to being a technical editor! We were told we must make the patterns easy enough so that a child could work them if they wanted to. Stay tuned for Part Four!

Writing a Workable Crochet Pattern: Part Two

Have you ever tried to follow a pattern and thought: "I wonder if the person that wrote this has ever even held a crochet hook?" I have seen patterns that were obviously written by someone who was more familiar with knitting ("work even"), and other patterns that expected you to be a mind reader. I remember one pattern  that a designer  submitted for a baby dress that started out with:
"For first row make a chain as long as you want it and work back across."

Not real specific, and a good reason many publishing companies use professional technical editors. If you want folks to be able to actually recreate your designs, you must put some thought and effort into your patterns.

What makes a pattern easy to follow? Clearly giving all the information  needed to create the item you have designed. Even experienced crocheters do not like to guess at what a designer wants them to do, and a beginner can easily become so frustrated that they just give up.

Basically, you must give exact instructions for what to do where, and how many times to do it.

I think the best way to give examples of this is to go step by step through an actual pattern, so I will use my Sunflower Dish or Wash Cloth as an example. My comments on the pattern are in red.

Sunflower Dish or Wash Cloth

by Elizabeth Ann White

for BellaCrochet

Skill Level: Easy (Be sure that you list an accurate skill level for your pattern. You can refer to this chart on the Craft Yarn Council site to help you determine what your pattern should be rated:
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/skill.html)

Size: About 7” across (measure the finished item and list a gauge if needed. I don't give a gauge for anything except clothing.)
Materials:
Worsted Weight Cotton Yarn:
  1 oz. Each Brown and Yellow
  Small amount Dark Green
Size I (5.50mm) Crochet Hook
Be sure to list everything needed to complete the item. I always list a little more yarn than I actually used. I also list the mm size of the hook.

Special Stitches:
For 2 dc cluster: Yo, insert hook in st or ch sp indicated, yo, pull lp through, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook, yo, insert hook in same st or ch sp, yo, pull lp through, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook (use standard abbreviations, or tell them what each abbreviation you are using stands for)
For 3 dc cluster: Yo, insert hook in st or ch sp indicated, yo, pull lp through, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook, (yo, insert hook in same st or ch sp, yo, pull through, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 2 times, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook
If you are going to be using a stitch several times in a design, it is a good idea to list it as a Special Stitch at the beginning of the pattern. It makes it easy for the crocheter to refer back to. I always write the name of the stitch in bold print the first time it is used in a pattern and then refer them to the Special Stitches. And be sure to double check your instructions for each Special Stitch; this is the worst possible place to have an error!

Okay, in Part Three we will get into the actual pattern. Please let me know if you have any questions!

Writing a Workable Crochet Pattern: Part One

There are few things in life as frustrating as trying to follow a crochet pattern that has errors, or is just plain incomprehensible. If you want to self publish your designs for sale or even if you are planning on offering them for free, here are a few things to consider.
1: Learn the correct names of the stitches and the standard abbreviations for each one.  I am talking about the basic stitches here: sc, dc, hdc, etc. Some designers make a big deal about how they write their patterns without abbreviations. I am not sure that this is actually helpful, since the abbreviations are pretty self explanatory (sc stands for single crochet, I think that would be easy enough for a beginner to grasp), and the crocheter is going to need to know the abbreviations  if they are ever going to make another designer's patterns.
If you think you have come up with a new  stitch and want to name it yourself, make a reasonable search to make sure it doesn't already have a name. But you can find the same group of stitches called a "slanted shell" stitch in one guide and a "bushy stitch" in another, so as long as you are giving instructions on how to make the stitch you are using, you can pretty well call it what you like.
2: Learn the difference between a "Rnd" and a "Row" and use them correctly in your pattern. A Row is turned at the end without joining. A Round is usually joined at the end to the first stitch of the round, and may be turned or not.  Lots of very old patterns called everything a "Row" and some designers still do this today. This is a pet peeve of mine, as I find it very annoying!
3: Learn when to use Parentheses, Asterisks, and Brackets and use them consistently throughout your pattern. Of course, you are free to write your repeats as you like, and can use them as desired. But most crocheters who already know the standard use of ( ), *,  and [ ] might be a little bit annoyed to find that they must learn a whole new set of rules in order to follow a  pattern, so stick to the standard usage whenever possible. If you are not sure about when to use what, check out this page on the Yarn Craft Councils site:
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/tip_crochet.html   Their site has lots of good information you can refer to when writing a pattern.
An editor once told me that writing a crochet pattern was more difficult than  writing a computer program, and since she did both,  I am sure she knew what she was talking about. It is a part of designing and publishing my patterns that I dislike, but I have to admit it is probably the most important. It takes time and effort, but with a little patience and practice it can be done. Stay tuned for Part Two!

The Most Important Thing To Do When Writing a Crochet Pattern

Okay, what I am about to tell you may not come as a surprise. It is not a secret. You will probably even  think "Well, duh, Ann, everyone knows that!" But even though it seems so obvious,  you would be amazed at how many designers (even professionals) do not do it. It is so simple, yet it can make the difference between a pattern that works and is easy to follow and one that will have any poor crocheter that tries to make it pulling out their hair in frustration.
Are you ready? Okay, here it is:
The most important thing to do when you are writing a pattern for a crocheted item you are designing is-
Write down everything you do at the time you are actually making the item.
That's it.
Don't be tempted to think "Oh, this is so simple, I know will remember what I did," and think you will be able to go back later and write the pattern. You would be surprised at how hard it is to remember if you used "ch-3" or "ch-4" sps on Rnd 4 after you have worked 20 more rounds of different lengths of ch sps.
I know it is more fun to just crochet without taking the time to write down the instructions, (especially if you are not  exactly sure how to word what you are doing at the time,)  but do it anyway. You will thank yourself later on. And if you plan on submitting your design to a publisher, your editor will thank you as well.
If you are really on a crocheting roll, and it is a fairly small project, go ahead and make your item without writing the pattern. Just be sure that you then make a second one, and this time write the pattern down. This is also a good time to make small adjustments to the design; say the stitches a certain round look a little stretched. When remaking it, you can add a few more increases. Just be sure to write down how many you are adding  and where they are placed.
 Even if it is just notes, quick scratches on a scrap of napkin or a used envelope, the  important thing is to document how many of what stitch you did where. For each and every row or round.
This is the best advice I can give any budding designer. After all, it doesn't matter how gorgeous your designs are if no one can follow your patterns to make them. And believe me, one bad pattern can ruin a designer's career before it even gets started.
I have a few more designing and pattern writing tips that I will share in future posts, and if you have any specific questions, just let me know and I will try my best to answer them. I think the world needs more crochet designers!

What Makes a Good Pattern?

I have been thinking a lot about my patterns lately. I want them to be the best they can possibly be, and work very hard to make them so. I worked for two years as a technical editor for Annie's Attic, where I learned the basics of pattern writing. But since I have been self-publishing, I have not followed the style I was taught exactly, but changed and added whatever I felt was needed to make the patterns better and easier to understand. Using testers has given me new insight into what crocheters like and want in a pattern. More stitch counts at the ends of the rows/rnds is one thing they suggested, and so  I have added more of them to my patterns.
I also add pictures whenever it is a little tricky to explain just exactly what I am trying to get across. This is something I learned from the old Elizabeth Hiddleson patterns, which can be a challenge to follow, but her clear pictures always help show just what she wants you to do. And I write notes of explanation whenever I feel they are needed.
Do you have any suggestions or ideas that might make my patterns better? I am always willing to try new things to make them easier to follow, and I love getting feedback. Thanks for any suggestions!

Now the Fun Begins! (How I do the Technical Editing on my Patterns)

I have finished all the crochet work on both the Thread Potholder set and the Butterfly and Roses Pineapple Doily set. All that is left to do now is edit the patterns, photograph each item and do the layout. And while I could crochet happily from now on, I do not like the editing of patterns, even though I realize it is probably the most important part of publishing my own designs. After all, it doesn't matter how pretty a design is, if my customers can't follow my instructions to make it, it is worthless.
I worked in the technical editing department of Annie's Attic and the Needlecraft Shop for two years, and while it drove me crazy (I kept wanting to change all the designs that came in-the designer in me kept trying to get out), I learned how to write a workable crochet pattern, in what was called "Old Annie Style." This is what I still use to write my patterns, with a few modifications I have made to make them easier to follow (I hope).

There are several steps to editing my patterns. First, I enter the pattern into my computer. I try to do this soon after I finish a design, while it is still fresh in my mind and I can decipher the notes I make as I am actually crocheting. After all the crochet work is finished and the rough patterns are entered into the computer, I go in and do the preliminary editing, adding Materials lists, Special Stitches, etc. I have already finished this part on both of these sets.
Now I will print out copies of all the patterns and check style, which means all the titles and words that should be bolded and italicize are, spacing is correct, etc.
Then (and this is the most important part) I check for accuracy and clarity. This means I go over each line, checking each word of the pattern, making sure the math adds up and the instructions are as clear as I can possibly make them. I compare the pattern to the actual item, to make sure what I say is going on is actually what is happening. On sets this size, I am figuring it will take about a week on each set to go over them thoroughly.
Finally I will add all pictures and do a final read through. Then I will stress over it a day or two, read through it again, and finally, I will have to force myself to let it go. I have nightmares about errors slipping by me! But if all goes well, both sets will be ready to add to my Etsy shop by the middle of June, at least I am hoping!

All the potholders, ready to for final editing.

Butterfly and Roses Pineapple Doilies, each in it's own plastic bag. It will be easier to verify them before they are starched and assembled.